Pouch Trim

Warp: Perle cotton
Weft: DMC embroidery cotton
Brocade: Kreinik jap
15ht century chasuble neckine, Braunschweig (EPAC p. 137)
Cards: 15
Width: 1.3mm
Length: Approx. 40 cm
What's new: Cotton ground, Kreinik jap brocade. No reversal of card turn direction.

This was just a "filler" project while I waited for the materials for my next plans to arrive. The pouch is of green wool with perle cotton lucet cord strings. Perle cotton is not a period material for brocaded tablet weaving but it is a good stand-in for silk for the cheap of heart (actually, the silk I'm using is cheaper by the metre than the perle cotton, but you have to buy twenty times as much). I used the leftovers from the lucet cord for the warp. I think it is DMC perle cotton #8, which is quite a thick thread. The brocade is Kreinik jap. For most of it I used a double thickness of #5, which is pretty thin, but near the end I ran out and switched to a single thickness of #12, which has a pretty similar effect.

I got the pattern from EPAC. It is from the band of a neckline of a 15th century chasuble. The original changes the orientation of the diagonals now and then, but I don't like the effect very much so I just kept going in the same direction all the way along.The weaving went alarmingly fast after the experience with a linen warp. I decided to do the whole thing without changing the direction the cards were turning, although I don't think this made any significant difference to the end result. Speaking of the end result, it is pretty striking. And by striking I mean garish. This is probably an inevitability when your warp is pink, but I also think the gold jap looks quite a bit tackier than the Anchor silver lame. I don't know whether that's a modern sensibilities thing or whether it's just unnaturally shiny.


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