tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8730522681376681772024-03-14T06:25:35.903+13:00Adventures in Historical Tabletweavingamaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-91150798732585481762018-01-30T17:15:00.001+13:002018-01-30T17:15:39.284+13:00Bliaut cuff #1 - after Philipp of Swabia's caligae<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iWjs8KkdEzY/Wm_twdKGAaI/AAAAAAAABGM/G0qBABqkiuQ92WCIoOfrhfKe8DIYBzMCACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180130_165317264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iWjs8KkdEzY/Wm_twdKGAaI/AAAAAAAABGM/G0qBABqkiuQ92WCIoOfrhfKe8DIYBzMCACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180130_165317264.jpg" /></a></div>
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I have finished the first of the 2 bliaut cuffs based on the band from Philipp of Swabia's caligae. Not much more to say from the previous post, although now you can see the small pattern sections that break up the pair of birds.<br />
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I also include images 1518 and 1519 from<i> Der Dom zu Speyer (</i>Bildband), Hans Erich Kubach and Walter Haas, of the front and the reverse of the original band.<br />
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I also used the information in <i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="a-size-large" id="productTitle">Des Kaisers letzte Kleider: Neue Forschungen zu den organischen Funden aus der Herschergräbern im Dom zu Speyer</span></span></i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="a-size-large" id="productTitle"> when planning this band.</span></span></div>
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-5352426583693573072017-04-25T15:23:00.003+12:002017-04-26T07:36:46.379+12:00Birds after Philip of Swabia's Caligae<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Warp: </span>Blue silk (Devere)</div>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Weft: </span>Structural weft: blue silk. Ground brocade: Honkin "real gold". Pattern brocade: Red silk (Devere)<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern: </span>Band from Philip of Swabia's caligae<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Cards: </span>112 pattern + 2x2 border<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Width:</span> 4.2 cm<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Length: </span>Aiming for 2x120cm, woven 40cm so far.<br />
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It's been 4 years since my elevation and the dress I wore is still only embellished with bicep bands. This year I've finally started weaving the bands for the big cuffs... although at the rate I'm going it will be next year before I finish!</div>
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This band is based loosely on a band on Philip of Swabia's caligae (fabric boots). Philip was buried in the early 13th century, but the information I have says the band is probably 11th century Islamic. I would love to know how they made that determination but no details are provided.</div>
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The end effect of this band is going to be very similar to the <a href="http://thewarpfactor.blogspot.co.nz/2015/12/what-difference-appropriate-materials.html">bicep bands</a> but the technique is different. The bicep bands were 3/1 broken twill so the red was part of the warp. In this band, the warp is all one colour and the pattern colour is a secondary brocade weft. The pattern colour floats on the back of the band whenever not in use while the ground brocade goes through the shed while the pattern colour is on top (hooray for photographs of the back of bands!)</div>
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I've worked with two brocade wefts before, eg the <a href="http://thewarpfactor.blogspot.co.nz/2017/01/what-difference-appropriate-materials.html">Mammen band</a>, but this is my first band where the pattern switches several times between 2 brocades in one line. It's very hard to get the weft packed tightly under these circumstances. According to the information I have, the original band had 40 picks per centimetre. That's insane. I've scaled the width up by 50% and I'm still only getting about 20 per centimeter. Of course, I don't have any data on the thickness of the thread.</div>
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Here are a couple of photos of my progress so far. </div>
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Birds 1 and 2 have a basket weave pattern behind them. In the original, the birds themselves had a basket weave pattern behind them, but the areas without any read had a patterned background. However, the photos I have aren't enough to discern the pattern and I decided this was one more thing than I could be bothered thinking about given the size of the project.<br />
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Birds 3 and 4 have diagonal lines. I'm going to alternate between these two backgrounds.<br />
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There's actually another element to the pattern of this: between each set of birds there's a thin strip of pattern that goes right across the band. But I haven't taken any photos of that yet, mostly because I'm not very happy with the way the ones I've done so far have turned out.<br />
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Today I've finished bird 6, about 40cm in. At this rate I will finish the first cuff maybe around September. Yeesh.amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-61132946536250890112017-01-30T18:09:00.000+13:002017-01-30T18:09:17.304+13:00What a difference appropriate materials can make II<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DxBsaksht00/WI7J48-nI5I/AAAAAAAABCg/4sR6VmCxp6UnLxfCwEe3XAY1kG22K_GhQCLcB/s1600/mammen.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DxBsaksht00/WI7J48-nI5I/AAAAAAAABCg/4sR6VmCxp6UnLxfCwEe3XAY1kG22K_GhQCLcB/s320/mammen.png" width="17" /></a>Last year I re-wove the Mammen band. I used exactly the same technique as <a href="http://thewarpfactor.blogspot.co.nz/2011/09/mammen-cuffs-again.html">the previous time</a> but with my super-thin honkin gold rather than the gilt passing thread I used last time for the gold. I used my new favourite, Devere's tight-twist 12 thread, in red for the silk warp and the ground weft (I used 2x6 thread loose twist in pink last time). I still used the same white Bockens sewing linen for the rest of the warp, and spun silver for the silver weft. For the soumak I used blue 6 thread loose twist silk.<br />
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This one really popped! I think I can declare victory over this band... until I encounter new research :-)amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-3119953980328206092015-12-05T12:22:00.000+13:002015-12-05T12:23:06.402+13:00What a difference appropriate materials can make!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I spent a lot of time weaving my bicep bands based on the chasuble of St Wolfgang a few years ago, but the end result was very underwhelming. I used 120 denier loose-spun silk and it really wasn't up to the abrasion it got from the cards.<br />
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This year I've re-woven it using 240 denier tight-spun silk and the thread came through it without any problems. I also used a better red. The result is so much better!<br />
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The cards themselves took quite a beating just like they did last time. I think I'll try painting the edges of the cards with nail polish again next time I weave with this type of thread. Getting enough "real" cards, like wood or bone, for a project with 400+ warp ends would be pretty expensive. I also think that tensioning would be challenging with cards that much thicker since the warp threads on the outside would need to be significantly longer than the ones in the middle. <br />
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-62632066362615929952015-05-30T13:34:00.001+12:002015-05-30T13:34:32.820+12:00Laurel cloak bandGoodness it's been a long time since I posted anything. I've been weaving though! Here are a couple of photos of the band I wove for the fastening of the new <a href="http://broiderers.lochac.sca.org/projects/laurel_cloak/pieces">Lochac Laurel Cloak</a>. This is an extrapolation of pattern 69 "Motif from the border of a mitre band, 12th/13th century (p. 186) in EPAC. It has about 100 cards including border.<br />
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-54813606244276643182014-03-02T16:40:00.001+13:002014-03-02T16:40:03.379+13:00A Dead End on Durham Warp TranspositionA particularly intriguing section in Collingwood (page 278 in the 2002 edition) concerns warp transposition (swapping the positions of tablets so their warp threads completely cross over). It reads:<br />
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<i>The controlling tablets are lifted from their place, passed over one or more tablets to the right or left and then re-inserted in the pack... the earliest example of the technique is a seal tag from Durham Cathedral, dated between 1189 and 1197</i> <i>(Henshall, 1964)</i><br />
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Henshall, 1964 is<i> </i>'Five Tablet Woven Seal Tags' in <i>Archaeological Journal</i>, Vol. CXXI. I finally got my hands on this article last week. It may blow nobody's mind to learn it details five different tablet woven bands. They are:<br />
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<li><i>Braid in double-faced plain weave with geometric pattern </i>1194-1215<br /><a href="http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/twistsam.html">Thora Sharptooth has written</a> about this band.</li>
<li><i>Braid in double-faced plain weave with chequer pattern </i>1165-1174</li>
<li><i>Braid in double-faced diagonal weave with animal patterns </i>1189-1196</li>
<li><i>Brocaded band in plain tablet weave</i> 1371</li>
<li><i>Multicoloured tablet-woven cord </i>1294<br /><a href="http://teffania.blogspot.co.nz/2007/03/new-tabletweaving-project-seal-tag.html">Teffania</a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null"> has written</a> about this band.</li>
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None of these seems to concern warp transposition. From the dates and from the colours of the warp threads described, it seems Collingwood was referring to the third band. This band does, in addition to its animal weave section, have a long "tail" whose pattern is described as "broken chevrons". But again, this is definitely not described as warp transposition. Each tablet has 2 threads in each colour, and all cards are just turned as a pack for a long distance.<br />
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Did Collingwood's imagination run away with him when he was reading this article? Did he have information beyond what is present in the article? Right now I don't see any evidence that warp transposition was in use in the medieval period. And I'm kinda sad about it!amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-64251466374892125412013-09-22T13:13:00.000+12:002013-09-22T13:13:21.527+12:00Random Brocaded bandsHi folks, long time no post, I've been having a bit of upheaval in my professional life this year and have been pouring a lot of time into my professional development rather than weaving. I've just started a new job and have a lot to learn there but hopefully things will start to settle down soon. <br />
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Anyway, I didn't stop weaving entirely. Here are some photos of some bands I've woven in the last 6 months. <br />
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The green one which is a cut-down Anna Neuper pattern was an experiment using the same materials as for the Chasuble of St Wolfgang, seeing if on a simpler band I could manage to use the nice fine silk without it getting eaten to pieces. Conclusion: no. What a pity, because the effect is lovely. Photograph doesn't really do it justice.<br />
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The purple one is a Birka 22 I strung up for a talk on Viking tablet weaving to let people have a go, as per usual at these things people wove about a cm and then I went home and finished it myself. Fibreholics silk and tambour thread from Hedgehog.<br />
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And here is a photo of a caul made by Anna de Wilde for Queen Eva's stepdown outfit, with a band I made edging it. Anna Neuper again, fibreholics silk and tambour thread.<br />
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Hopefully it won't be another 6 months before I post again, but um, right now I'm a little distracted by Italian shirring.</div>
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amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-45188182807135120892013-02-04T18:16:00.000+13:002013-02-04T18:16:14.048+13:00Crowdsourced BandI've just got back from Canterbury Faire which is the big SCA event of the year around these parts. During the event I was elevated to the Order of the Laurel. Since I knew about it in advance I thought it would be nice to plan something to celebrate the occasion- and celebrate tablet weaving at the same time! What I came up with was a band to be woven by the populace, with a brocaded inscription relating to the occasion.<br />
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Baron Steffan ap Kennydd provided a Latin transcription for the band. It reads:<br />
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<i>Populus Lochacis in Mercatu Cantuar. m.f. A.S. XLVII reg. Fel. Evaq. RR. ut induct. Dom. Hon. Amaliae Brisachensis in Ord. Laur. annotet. </i><br />
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Which translates roughly as:<br />
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<i>The people of Lochac at the Canterbury Fair made me in the 47th year of the Society during the reign of Felix the King and Eva the Queen that the induction of the Honorable Lady Amalie of Brisache<br />into the Order of the Laurel might be recorded</i><br />
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Of course I never expected we could get through so much weaving in the 6 "official" days of Canterbury Faire, but this is approximately the right length of text to fill a belt<i>.</i><br />
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I used the font from the Girdle of Witgarius as a model although the band does not emulate this band in other respects. It has 30 cards and both the warp and brocade weft are a relatively thick spun silk bought from <a href="http://www.swarog-shop.de/">Swarog</a>.<br />
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I set the band up on my Oseberg loom last Monday, and asked a few experienced weavers to be available to help first-time tablet weavers contribute to the band. By the end of the Saturday 44 people had woven 30 letters. About half had never done any tablet weaving before and most of the ones who had had only been though my introductory class in previous years. I was very impressed with people's willingness to give it a go.<br />
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Teaching people how to do brocade over and over again, and watching the other experienced weavers do the same, was a very interesting experience and made me a lot more aware of my own process when weaving.<br />
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I plan to finish off the rest of the band in the coming weeks.<br />
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-25324216011291073192012-11-23T13:54:00.001+13:002012-11-23T13:55:22.334+13:00Shoe planningAlmost 2 months since last post and not a lot to report. I've just started a new project but it's not going to be a quick one. I'm going to make 12th century "Pontifical shoes" with tablet woven bands on them. The bands and their layout will be inspired by the shoes of Philipp von Schwaben and the construction of the shoes will be similar to a number of other pairs from around the same time or slightly earlier. Some of these shoes are pretty bling, with silk coverings, tablet weaving, embroidery (mostly chain stitch and wire embroidery), gilt leather, decorative rivets, precious stones and cutouts (I don't think any of them have *all* of those things but some have most). Here are some links if you're interested:<br />
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<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/dmhds87_01a.jpg">Photo of shoes of Bishop Bernhard of Hildesheim (d. 1153)</a><a href="http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/dmhds87_01a.jpg"></a><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><a href="http://www.viks.sk/chk/14tmh_90.doc">Fabulous beasts—leather, silk and gold: recent research on and conservation of 12th century footwear from the episcopal tombs in Trèves Cathedral </a>2005 article on restoration of one of the blingiest pairs</span></span></span></span><br />
<a href="http://webdev.archive.org/details/geschichtederli03bock"><br /></a>
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span id="internal-source-marker_0.4887716691761148" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="http://webdev.archive.org/details/geschichtederli03bock">Geschichte der liturgischen Gewänder des Mittelalters</a> </span></span></span></span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span id="internal-source-marker_0.4887716691761148" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> - book from 1859 with a lot of detail on this style of shoe on pages 400-416.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span id="internal-source-marker_0.4887716691761148" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Deadline on this project is Canterbury Faire at the end of January; by then I hope to have a pair of shoes with tablet weaving on them, which can accrete additional decoration over time. </span></span></span></span></span>amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-7155304163300880822012-09-29T17:47:00.001+12:002012-09-29T17:48:19.512+12:00Chasuble of St Wolfgang Motif 5<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UIXowQsNr9E/UGZ-yqq1nPI/AAAAAAAAArE/LJAgVImWESc/s1600/whatever_this_is.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UIXowQsNr9E/UGZ-yqq1nPI/AAAAAAAAArE/LJAgVImWESc/s200/whatever_this_is.bmp" width="200" /></a>Yes, I have completely given up on naming these things. Maybe it's a flower? Anyway, here it is, the last of the 5 motifs.<br />
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I took the photo below, which unusually for me managed to be in focus, and straight away noticed the knot (centre right, in red). The knot is gone now but I'm glad nobody but the camera is looking that closely! <br />
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Here's another photo I thought I'd share. When I finished the first of the two bands, the cards were a wreck, and when I swapped them all out for new ones I thought I'd try to improve the situation by making the cards a bit stiffer, so I painted nail polish around the edges of all of them. Well, that worked, as far as making the cards stiffer went. Not a one of them gave out. On the other hand, it didn't have a great effect on the warp. This picture is of what greeted me when I moved the cards down about 10cm into the second band. Threads dying all over the place. Over the following 10cm I replaced almost all the warp threads. Again. After just doing between the first and second band.<br />
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And here's a photo of the entire two bands. You can see the lion in the second band looks a bit hairy, well, that's a byproduct of all those warp threads getting replaced, unfortunately.<br />
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So what now? At the moment I'm making a practice run at the Germanic Bliaut these bands are going on, to make sure I get the fit right before I cut into that pretty, pretty fabric. Then I'll make the real deal. So probably no weaving at least through October- if I can help myself!amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-20566307690796835112012-09-17T18:00:00.000+12:002012-09-29T17:48:19.507+12:00Chasuble of Wolfgang motif... umm... 2? 4?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is the second motif I wove, but the first time I did it it was about 40% longer than this and I wasn't very happy with the outcome. So here's my second attempt.<br />
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I don't really have much more to say at this point other than that I'm about ready to finish this project and am very glad to have only about 5cm to go!<br />
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Oh! and also, I bought brocade for the bliaut these bands will be going on and it is <a href="http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/product&path=5&product_id=2455">very pretty</a>.<br />
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-44917229130371602282012-08-06T21:13:00.000+12:002012-09-29T17:48:19.510+12:00Chasuble of St Wolfgang Candlestick<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here's another figure from the Chasuble of St Wolfgang: the candlestick. I assume. It might be a flower, I guess.<br />
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This is the first figure after I re-strung all the cards. Most of the many, many knots I tied in my warp threads are hidden on the back of the cards, but some of them slipped into the front while I wasn't looking.<br />
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For this figure I tried doing as the original seems to have done and making some of the pattern in the ground colour (the blue parts). It looks OK here, but from many angles the blue rather fades into the background. <br />
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-10321702700606756402012-07-20T14:12:00.002+12:002012-09-29T17:48:19.505+12:00Historic Tablet Weaving Facebook GroupYesterday, <a href="http://mytangledstrings.blogspot.com/">Aldygtha</a> created a new <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/418594251523979/">Historic Tablet Weaving</a> Facebook group, and it is already filling up with interesting discussions and beautiful photos of members' work. If you like historical tablet weaving (and you don't hate Facebook!) you should join!amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-85453371643099619692012-07-15T17:16:00.001+12:002012-07-15T17:16:19.056+12:00Embroidery InterludeWell I reached the first milestone in my distracting embroidery, and managed to put it aside. Got back to the weaving and managed to finish the first bicep band. Half way there! Things were really going downhill near the end in terms of the integrity of the cards and the warp. So I've decided to re-string everything with new cards. Woohoo. That should keep me occupied far another week or so.<br />
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Anyway, here's a picture of the embroidery I've been working on. It's going to be a buskin, based on the ones of <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O92411/part-of-a-unknown/">Walter de Cantelupe</a>. The lion is from some manuscript I cunningly didn't write down the name of (Will have to trawl back through the University Library to find it again)<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7vnimn0um9k/UAJRVgtZIOI/AAAAAAAAApA/whgEHzGkdPk/s1600/underside_lion.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7vnimn0um9k/UAJRVgtZIOI/AAAAAAAAApA/whgEHzGkdPk/s320/underside_lion.JPG" width="305" /></a></div>amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-77030502689592998562012-06-24T13:48:00.001+12:002012-06-24T13:49:48.439+12:00Chasuble of St Wolfgang Bird<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ElbV6C090Ro/T-Zvu7d8UMI/AAAAAAAAAow/xd9Rlqf3WJ0/s1600/birdie.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ElbV6C090Ro/T-Zvu7d8UMI/AAAAAAAAAow/xd9Rlqf3WJ0/s200/birdie.bmp" width="200" /></a>Sorry for the long break between posts, I've had 3 weekends in a row swallowed up by events, and also I may have got a ... little bit ... distracted ... by an embroidery project. OK, so I haven't done any weaving for the last 3 weeks. And probably won't for another 2 or so, when I finish the first figure in the embroidery and hopefully get it out of my system.<br /><br />Anyway, here's another figure from the Chasuble of St Wolfgang band. It's actually the 3rd one I wove; the second one doesn't look so great so I'm going to see how it comes out the second time through before posting it. But this bird looks pretty much like I was hoping. <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mksbhSEFRkg/TE84OnFq-1I/AAAAAAAAAIw/WPbGNSJhFtM/s1600/Wolf4.JPG">Here's the link</a> to the photo of the original on Kopert. Not sure why this bird is holding a boot.</div>
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-84551322228101248462012-05-01T18:29:00.000+12:002012-05-01T19:46:43.059+12:00Chasuble of St Wolfgang Lion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-piqFGfxbAHo/T55Zbv9TcRI/AAAAAAAAAoM/phbINai4LVQ/s1600/lion.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-piqFGfxbAHo/T55Zbv9TcRI/AAAAAAAAAoM/phbINai4LVQ/s320/lion.JPG" width="116" /></a></div>
Right. Here are some pictures of my lion from the Chasuble of St Wolfgang. This is the pattern from pages 120-121 of <i>EPAC</i>. The pattern in <i>EPAC </i>is 125 tablets wide, although the description of the band says it has 132 tablets. Not sure if any "lost" tablets are in the border or the pattern.<br />
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There's one obvious way that this pattern differs from regular 3/1 broken twill: The vertical (lengthways) cross-sections of the regions where the red is up are not multiples of 2 passes long. In fact to counteract the difference in warp density and weft density, the lines across the band are usually 1 weft pass wide while the lines down the band are usually 2 tablets (8 warp threads) wide. When I started, I wasn't sure how to approach this- maybe there should be half turns to bring the red up and down at the right point? Or maybe the red should be brought up early or down late, with the brocade obscuring the jagged edges? I couldn't tell from the <a href="http://buchwerkstatt.blogspot.co.nz/2010/07/tame-lions.html">photos of the original band</a> (not even the one where the brocade is worn away). So I tried both.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fky2gtV7nZI/T55ZhZN6N1I/AAAAAAAAAoU/Y8Mbd1hB5O4/s1600/lion_rear.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fky2gtV7nZI/T55ZhZN6N1I/AAAAAAAAAoU/Y8Mbd1hB5O4/s320/lion_rear.JPG" width="166" /></a>The half-turns plan was not successful. The areas not covered by brocade did not end up solid blocks of red. However Plan B, with the red coming up early and hiding behind the brocade where necessary, worked fine. The brocade hides the extra red very effectively. For example, if you look at the picture of the back of the band at right, you can see that the regions of the band showing the lion's toes are solid blue (ie red on the front), but you can't tell this by looking at the front of the band.<br />
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Of course you might then be asking the question "Why don't you just turn the cards as a pack for the ground section if you won't be able to tell that red is up? Well, one reason is that the band would develop twist. But that's not that important, because I'm going to be sewing this band onto fabric. The "real" reason is that. I <i>can </i>tell from that picture where the brocade is worn away that the original didn't do that. <br />
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I arranged the tablets so that at every line, the brocade
tiedowns were under the blue thread on a tablet whose upwards holes show
blue nearest me and red further away. This gives an easy way to
double-check you've turned the cards the right way. Nevertheless this
first pattern is full of tiedown errors. The border pattern got out of sync
with the central pattern and for the whole lion the the tiedowns did not
line up with where they are in the <i>EPAC </i>pattern. Turned out to be more of a hassle than I expected :( I made sure they were lining up when I moved onto the next pattern.<br />
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There are also "errors" in the pattern but since the lions on the original don't exactly look identical, I'm fine with that.<br />
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You can see on the photo of the back of the band that it has a bit of a fluff problem. OK, not just a bit. The threads I am using are so delicate that they leave bits of themselves behind at every opportunity. They snag on everything, including the sides of the cards, and rough spots on my fingers. Picking the worst of the fluff off is no big deal, but there is quite a bit of woven-in fuzz over the whole thing. I'm leaving the decision of how meticulously I try to fix it until I'm finished. The worst of the fluff problem comes down where the threads touch and twist at the opposite end to the pattern (especially in the borders since the other cards aren't building up much twist). Each card ends up with a fluff-ball that stops the warps from untwisting once the card reverses. I attack them periodically with a sharp needle and try to break them up, but fairly often I end up breaking a warp thread instead. The situation doesn't quite seem to be sliding into an incremental mess of doom, fortunately.<br />
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-17205873964445080612012-04-25T17:22:00.000+12:002012-04-25T17:23:34.172+12:00Hmm, it's been a monthWell, it's been a month since my last post, and I've been travelling, and sick, and lazy, so I haven't got around to writing anything up yet. So here's a somewhat blurry and out-of-date photo of the first couple of centimetres of the St Wolfgang pattern, just to prove I've done something! There are several mistakes just in this little section of the band but it still manages to look quite pretty.<br />
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Hopefully I will get real blog post together soon!amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-48856806871834477252012-03-25T20:49:00.000+13:002012-04-25T17:23:39.495+12:00Band from Chasuble of St WolfgangI have a new project. It is the band on the Chasuble of St Wolfgang (or rather, one of them). You may have seen the pattern in <i>EPAC</i> on page 120, or plate 179 in Collingwood. There are photos of the original at <a href="http://buchwerkstatt.blogspot.co.nz/2010/07/tame-lions.html">Kopert</a> -taken by someone who knows it's useful to show the part of the band where the brocade has worn away! You can see Nancy's version <a href="http://weavershand.com/gallery8.html">here</a> but it is not 3/1 broken twill<br />
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The band is approximately 3cm wide, has over 120 tablets, and is woven in brocaded 3/1 broken twill. This is the first time I am combining both techniques so it is a bit of an adventure. To make things even more exciting, I am weaving it using very thin (120 denier) red and blue filament silk from <a href="http://www.devereyarns.co.uk/">Devere</a>. For the brocade I am using real gold thread I bought from <a href="http://johnmarshall.to/">John Marshall</a>. I'll be weaving on my inkle loom because there's no way I'll be able to keep things neat otherwise.<br />
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<i>EPAC</i> graphs the first figure from the band, the lion (or aardvark pushing a lion mask, as it appears), but there are several more as you can see from the photos of the original linked above. I will need to graph these myself. <br />
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For once I know what the band will be for. I intend to make a Germanic tunic similar to the one that Teffania is wearing in <a href="http://teffania.blogspot.co.nz/2007/10/austrian-dress-reality-itteration-2.html">this post</a>.This band will be made into bicep bands for the garment so I will need about 60cm.<br />
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This band is going to take several months so I am not waiting until I am done to write about it. I have already started weaving and things are going OK at the moment although I am a little nervous it will all go pear shaped at some point.<br />
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Sorry, no photos of the pattern section of the band yet so here is one of the part of the band where I was getting up and running (click to enlarge). Hopefully it give you an idea of what I'm getting myself into!<br />
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-30691533047233568982012-03-10T09:59:00.002+13:002012-03-10T10:43:42.133+13:00Nancy Spies selling off her booksNancy Spies posted the following message to SCA-Card-Weaving yesterday:<br />
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<i>"I don't mean to do a "business" message here, but I did want to let
folks know that I am liquidating all remaining </i><i>stock of "Anna Neuper's
Modelbuch" and "Here Be Drolleries" by the end of April. "Here Be
Wyverns" is now out-of-print, but copies of "Ecclesiastical Pomp" will
still be available until sold out."</i><br />
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<a href="http://weavershand.com/ArelateStudio1.html"><i>Ecclesiastical Pomp and Circumstance</i></a> is THE book for brocaded tablet weaving and <a href="http://weavershand.com/ArelateStudioaneuper.html"><i>Anna Neuper's Modelbuch</i></a> is also a great little book. Get in quick!<i> </i>amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-32819264980807890292012-02-28T08:46:00.000+13:002012-03-05T08:25:11.088+13:00Siksälä Shawl- 13th-14th century EstoniaUpdate: I had the shawl incorrectly dated to the 11th century-it's a bit later than that!<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RDZfBqwr92s/T0vcfBEsUAI/AAAAAAAAAm8/b20UTE5yMhk/s1600/siksala+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RDZfBqwr92s/T0vcfBEsUAI/AAAAAAAAAm8/b20UTE5yMhk/s320/siksala+2.jpg" width="240" /></a> <br />
Maikki Karisto and the Tallinn University Institute of
History have given me permission to share some photos she took last year
of a shawl from Siksälä and specifically its tablet woven border.<br />
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This shawl can be found in the Tallinn University Institute of
History archaeological collection under the major number AI 5100. It
dates to around the 13th-14th century. The tablet weaving is about 1cm in width. It is in Baltic two-hole technique, or Hochdorf
technique, depending on how you look at it.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0ynIslqccjM/T0vcgdq9mBI/AAAAAAAAAnM/I7V01uuepNw/s1600/siksala+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0ynIslqccjM/T0vcgdq9mBI/AAAAAAAAAnM/I7V01uuepNw/s320/siksala+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
More information on the finds from Siksälä can be found in the book <i>Siksälä, a community at the frontiers, Iron Age and Medieval </i>by Silvia Laul & Heiki Valk.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oLNyDg8yCzM/T0vb-Yohs3I/AAAAAAAAAm0/fOeXQE1l6vc/s1600/siksala+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oLNyDg8yCzM/T0vb-Yohs3I/AAAAAAAAAm0/fOeXQE1l6vc/s1600/siksala+1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-9238057105297802052012-02-18T20:03:00.000+13:002012-02-18T20:07:15.891+13:00Hallstatt 2 hole<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Warp: </span>White and green silk<span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Weft: </span>Green silk<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern: </span>Hallstatt Inv.Nr. 89.870<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Cards: </span>12 pattern + 1 and 3 border<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Width:</span> 9mm<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Length: </span>Approx. 75cm<br />
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This band is covered in <i>Bunte Tuche & Gleissendes Metall, Frühe Kelten der Hallstattzeit</i>, and also "Tablet-woven Ribbons from the prehistoric Salt-mines at Hallstatt, Austria" - results of some experiments in <i>Hallstatt Textiles</i>. The former describes it as being in Hochdorf technique and the latter as being regular 3/1 broken twill.<br />
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I wove the pattern in Hochdorf structure, but rather than the alternating pairs of SS and ZZ I oriented the tablets all Z on the left and S on the right. This allowed the tablets to turn as a pack 2/3 of the time (border excluded).<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v67zewEao_M/Tz9N8fzUslI/AAAAAAAAAmo/BuD0bunfDqo/s1600/hallstatt+photo.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="66" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v67zewEao_M/Tz9N8fzUslI/AAAAAAAAAmo/BuD0bunfDqo/s400/hallstatt+photo.bmp" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sorry the photo is a little blurry, but the end result is quite snappy in person especially considering its simplicity.<br />
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If you're wondering about the uneven border, this was present on the original.amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-76149347412288199262012-01-21T15:51:00.000+13:002012-01-22T14:20:18.373+13:00Hochdorf<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rjy51FtsvpY/TxoX3VC3W2I/AAAAAAAAAl4/nAZtp8K3ebI/s1600/hochdorf+coloured.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rjy51FtsvpY/TxoX3VC3W2I/AAAAAAAAAl4/nAZtp8K3ebI/s320/hochdorf+coloured.bmp" width="157" /></a></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Warp: </span>White and blue wool<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Weft: </span>White wool<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern: </span>Hochdorf find no. 39<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Cards: </span>32 pattern + 4x2 border<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Width:</span>1.8cm<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Length: </span>Approx. 1m<br />
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This is my first go at the technique sometimes referred to as "pebble weave" due to the sort of dimples or "pebbles" of the contrasting colour that appear in the ground areas. "Pebble weave" can also refer to an Andean technique which is not the same thing.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0IfO3AAe4iU/TxoYdul_F1I/AAAAAAAAAmM/tyFcAc1mGpI/s1600/Hochdorf.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0IfO3AAe4iU/TxoYdul_F1I/AAAAAAAAAmM/tyFcAc1mGpI/s320/Hochdorf.JPG" width="73" /></a>Excluding the border tablets, tablets are threaded in two holes, alternating in pairs of SS and ZZ. Each pair is turned as a unit. To get the background area (white with blue dimples in my version), all rows do a quarter turn twice in one direction and then twice in the other. To bring the other colour to the front, do not reverse the turning direction of a pair.<br />
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In the pattern above right, each B or F represents 2 tablets turning backward or forward for 2 quarter turns. Originally I just had a "pattern" showing what the finished band looks like but I found it necessary to construct a pattern in this format because it was breaking my brain a bit having a warp where not all tablets were threaded the same way. Once I had worked out my own pattern, the weaving was easy going.<br />
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This pattern is "find no. 39" from the burial chamber of the Celtic Chieftain from Hochdorf. It was a decorative edge on a wall hanging, woven of hemp and badger hair (!) Find no. 44 is in the same technique. The band is covered in Lise Raeder Knudsen's article in NESAT V and in Johanna Banck-Burgess's <i>Hochdorf IV</i>. This grave site dates to the 6th century BC and contains several tablet woven bands including a variety of sophisticated techniques.<br />
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This is my 3rd band for my camping mattress but since Canterbury Faire is next week I guess I won't be making a 4th. <br />
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Check out Micky Schoelzke's <a href="http://mickytissages.wordpress.com/2010/08/19/travail-en-cours-motif-de-hochdorf/">version of this band</a>, which I think is much prettier than mine!amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-69379413368529141612011-12-05T18:37:00.001+13:002012-01-21T14:49:30.265+13:00Laceby<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2fLMt8Axe-I/Ttxy_nrzJQI/AAAAAAAAAlM/ej_BSILiRr8/s1600/laceby.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2fLMt8Axe-I/Ttxy_nrzJQI/AAAAAAAAAlM/ej_BSILiRr8/s320/laceby.bmp" width="193" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Warp: </span>White and blue wool<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Weft: </span>White wool<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern: </span>Laceby<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Cards: </span>12 pattern + 2x2 border<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Width:</span>0.8cm<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Length: </span>Approx. 1.1 metres<br />
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So you may have noticed, I'm kinda obsessed with two-hole patterns at the moment, and this is one that people mention a lot. It is described by Grace Crowfoot in Antiquaries Journal 36 (1956), in the article <i>Anglo-Saxon sites in Lincolnshire</i><b> </b>by F.H. Thompson. The preserved fragment is only 3x1.1cm, found in the back of a 6th century brooch from Laceby, England. The original is made of linen.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a9PEdEKilWM/TtxZE5O14OI/AAAAAAAAAlE/MI2MPp0fwkE/s1600/Laceby.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a9PEdEKilWM/TtxZE5O14OI/AAAAAAAAAlE/MI2MPp0fwkE/s320/Laceby.JPG" width="26" /></a>Crowfoot posits two different ways of weaving the band, one using a heddle (ie not using tablets), and one using "six 2-hole tablets, with two threads in each hole". I'm utterly unable to explain how the latter system would result in the pattern reconstruction given (same as the one pictured) so I assume that the reconstruction was a bit of a stab in the dark. This reconstruction uses a tabby weave. You can see a similar (possibly identical) reconstruction on <a href="http://www.stringpage.com/tw/twohole.html">Phiala's website</a><br />
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I originally threaded this pattern up with extra border tablets in the hopes that I could use it as one of my mattress straps, but even with the extra tablets, it was way too narrow, so I ditched them.<br />
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The pattern is relatively fast but I found it easy to lose track of where I was up to, and I was too lazy to fix some of my mistakes!<br />
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This will probably be my last band for the year.<br />
<br />amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-72709412997534100342011-11-14T15:12:00.001+13:002011-11-14T15:20:18.873+13:00Neuper #32<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NB3LQwl0fuM/TsB6SGdxrJI/AAAAAAAAAks/iFqp9bh8P3w/s1600/neuper_32.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NB3LQwl0fuM/TsB6SGdxrJI/AAAAAAAAAks/iFqp9bh8P3w/s320/neuper_32.JPG" width="20" /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_kpG4hgxceng/SkdDM4L6znI/AAAAAAAAAGM/p0pi57iD3n4/s1600-h/neuper_29.bmp"></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Warp: </span>Thin white silk<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Weft: </span>Light green silk<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Brocade: </span>Yellow silk<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern: </span>Anna Neuper #32<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Cards: </span>27<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Width:</span>1.2cm<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Length: </span>Approx. 1.1 metres<br />
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I had some time to kill while I waited for some books and materials to arrive so I did another band from Anna Neuper's Modelbuch using colours I don't like very much. I'll donate it to something.amaliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01603373525280993374noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-873052268137668177.post-90368985788043637722011-10-30T16:08:00.000+13:002012-01-14T20:25:01.020+13:0012th Century Latvian Band<div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qtcI-P5Dyo/Tqy76YvPtPI/AAAAAAAAAjM/WvAC2ranaqg/s1600/latvian.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qtcI-P5Dyo/Tqy76YvPtPI/AAAAAAAAAjM/WvAC2ranaqg/s320/latvian.bmp" width="81" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Warp:</span><span> Wool (fibreholics)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Weft:</span><span> </span><span>Wool (fibreholics)</span><span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span><span> </span>from <i>Latviesu Jostas</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Cards:</span><span> 20 pattern + 2x3 border</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Width:</span><span> 1.5cm
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Length:</span><span> 55cm</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span>This technique came up on the SCA-Card-Weaving list recently and I was inspired to give it a go. The pattern is from </span><i>Latviesu Jostas </i>by Aleksandra Dzérvítis & Lilija Treimanis. Wonder of wonders, this book was in the National Library of New Zealand (Finding a book I'm looking for domestically is a minor miracle). The book is in Latvian and English. Mostly it covers traditional patterns but it also has some 12th century patterns, although information from an archaeological perspective is lacking. This one is described as "Stameriene, blue wrap".</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The book is pretty emphatic about getting the colours to have the characteristic greenish tinge of local dyes. I gave this a crack by overdying my blue, red and yellow wools with green dye. It didn't really result in the right colours, but they are still quite striking together.<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0iqlXPoLYIU/Tqy4iA8pRpI/AAAAAAAAAi0/hAcPuHqC4xI/s1600/baltic_front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="32" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0iqlXPoLYIU/Tqy4iA8pRpI/AAAAAAAAAi0/hAcPuHqC4xI/s400/baltic_front.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">This technique is quite similar to that of the <a href="http://thewarpfactor.blogspot.com/2011/10/two-hole-plain-weave-and-warp-floats.html">Swiss band</a> I did recently. Both feature a two-hole weave where the weft sometimes passes above both threads in a card to form a brocade. This is the green in the pattern (with the exception of the green cards in the border). The main difference is that this band has warp twining, although not as sharply as in a four-hole pattern. Here's the back, where it's easier to see this effect.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">If I was doing this again I'd make the green border tablet be on the outside, where it would mask the "blips" where the weft turns.</span></div>
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